Assaf notes, explained
The 103 Assaf scents with a note list name 104 different notes between them. 52 notes return in three or more scents and have a page of their own; every note is explained below in a sentence.
The most listed notes
With the number of scents that list each: Bergamot leads with 64.
Bergamot (64)Musk (64)Amber (51)Patchouli (38)Vanilla (38)Jasmine (31)Sandalwood (31)Rose (29)Vetiver (27)Cedarwood (26)Orange blossom (25)Lavender (14)Lemon (14)Orange (14)Mandarin (13)Pink pepper (13)Cardamom (12)Cinnamon (12)Saffron (12)Blackcurrant (10)Ginger (10)Oud (10)Apple (9)Grapefruit (9)Caramel (8)Incense (8)Leather (8)Tonka bean (8)Violet (8)Pineapple (7)Guaiac wood (6)Oakmoss (6)Iris (5)Lily of the valley (5)Mint (5)Almond (4)Ambroxan (4)Basil (4)Neroli (4)Nutmeg (4)Peach (4)Sweet lemon (4)Tobacco (4)Akigalawood (3)Apricot (3)Clove (3)Geranium (3)Labdanum (3)Pear (3)Peony (3)Suede (3)Ylang-ylang (3)
Citrus
Bergamot
Grown mainly in Calabria in southern Italy, this citrus fruit gives a peel oil that smells bright, fresh and faintly bitter, with a floral edge.
Listed by 64 scents. All Assaf perfumes with bergamot
Lemon
Sharp, zesty and clean, lemon peel oil is one of the most recognisable fresh smells in perfumery.
Listed by 14 scents. All Assaf perfumes with lemon
Orange
Orange oil comes from the peel of the sweet orange and smells juicy, sunny and sweet, with only a hint of bitterness.
Listed by 14 scents. All Assaf perfumes with orange
Citrus fruits
As an umbrella term, citrus fruits names a group of peels such as lemon, orange or mandarin, not one material, and usually stands for a fresh, zesty, juicy effect.
Listed in Arrogate Comete (top), Aura (top), Dangerous Arrogate (top), Frankel Afternoon (top), Frankel Chill (top), Frankel Elysium (top), Frankel Storm (top), Glitch (top), Miss Flora (top), Noble (top), Risk Comete (top), Swimming In Summer Intense (top) and Wild Colt (top).
Mandarin
Pressed from the peel of a small, loose-skinned citrus fruit, mandarin oil smells sweet, juicy and gentler than lemon or grapefruit.
Listed by 13 scents. All Assaf perfumes with mandarin
Grapefruit
Tart, juicy and slightly bitter, grapefruit peel oil gives a vivid citrus smell with a sparkling edge.
Listed by 9 scents. All Assaf perfumes with grapefruit
Sweet lemon
Mild and juicy with little acidity, sweet lemon smells softer and rounder than a true lemon, with a gentle sugary tone.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with sweet lemon
Petitgrain
The leaves and young twigs of the bitter orange tree are distilled to give petitgrain, which smells green, woody and citrusy rather than fruity.
Listed in Frankel Silver (base) and Frankel Silver Elixir (base).
Candied lemon peel
Lemon peel preserved in sugar syrup gives a note that is zesty and sweet at once, with a slightly sticky, confectionery quality.
Listed in Strike Black (heart).
Lime
Green, sharp and zesty, lime peel gives a more tart and slightly bitter citrus smell than lemon or orange.
Listed in Error 404 (top).
Fruit
Blackcurrant
The dark berry of a shrub also known as cassis, blackcurrant smells tart, juicy and a little green.
Listed by 10 scents. All Assaf perfumes with blackcurrant
Apple
Crisp, juicy and fresh, the apple note can lean green and tart or round and sweet, depending on the variety it suggests.
Listed by 9 scents. All Assaf perfumes with apple
Berries
An umbrella term for small soft fruits rather than one material, berries usually stand for a mix of red and dark fruit that smells sweet, tart and juicy.
Listed in Arrogate Girl (top), Deep Amber (top), Frankel Chill (heart), Glitch (heart), Miss Grace Dance Arrogate (top), Miss Sakura (top), Pink Queen (top), Tobacco Jam 50 (top) and Tobacco Jam 60 (top).
Pineapple
Tropical, juicy and sweet with a tangy, slightly sharp edge, pineapple brings a sunny fruit note to a blend.
Listed by 7 scents. All Assaf perfumes with pineapple
Peach
Velvety, sweet and juicy, peach has a soft fruit smell with a creamy, slightly floral side.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with peach
Apricot
Warm and velvety, apricot has a soft, juicy fruit smell with a little floral note, gentle rather than tart.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with apricot
Pear
Lightly sweet and juicy, pear has a gentle, watery fruit smell with a slightly green freshness.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with pear
Black grape
A dark, sweet and juicy fruit note with a slightly tart skin, black grape can feel jammy or faintly winey.
Listed in Crown Spirit (top).
Black raisins
Made from grapes dried until sweet and chewy, black raisins smell dark, concentrated and jammy, with a faint winey warmth.
Listed in Frankel Silver Elixir (heart).
Coconut
Creamy, sweet and softly nutty, coconut gives a tropical, milky note drawn from the white flesh of the nut.
Listed in Harmony (top).
Lychee
With translucent flesh and a tropical origin, lychee smells juicy, light and sweet, and has a delicate rose-like floral side.
Listed in Feeling (top).
Raspberry
Sweet, tart and jammy, raspberry gives a bright red-fruit smell with a faint floral side.
Listed in Arrogate Pink Diva (top).
Rhubarb
A tart garden stalk that is cooked like a fruit, rhubarb smells crisp, green and a little sour.
Listed in Feeling (top).
Strawberry
Sweet and juicy with a light caramel-like warmth, strawberry gives a ripe, rounded red-fruit smell.
Listed in Proino Pegasus (top).
Sweet fruit
Naming a general effect rather than one material, sweet fruit usually means a ripe, sugary, juicy fruit smell without picking out a particular fruit.
Listed in Tobacco Rage 32 (heart).
Flowers
Jasmine
Small white jasmine flowers are picked for their heady fragrance, which is rich, warm and honeyed, with a touch of fruit and a faintly animal warmth.
Listed by 31 scents. All Assaf perfumes with jasmine
Rose
The petals of the rose give a classic floral smell that can be fresh and dewy, honeyed and rich, or slightly peppery, depending on the variety.
Listed by 29 scents. All Assaf perfumes with rose
Orange blossom
The white flower of the orange tree gives a note that is honeyed, fresh and soft, with a slightly citrusy, green edge.
Listed by 25 scents. All Assaf perfumes with orange blossom
Violet
Soft, sweet and powdery, violet has a cool floral smell with a green, leafy side and a faint hint of fruit.
Listed by 8 scents. All Assaf perfumes with violet
Iris
The dried root of the iris plant gives the note usually called orris, which is cool, powdery and slightly earthy, with a buttery floral softness.
Listed by 5 scents. All Assaf perfumes with iris
Lily of the valley
Fresh, green and softly floral, lily of the valley, also called muguet, smells of a spring garden after rain, with a dewy lightness.
Listed by 5 scents. All Assaf perfumes with lily of the valley
Neroli
Distilled from the blossom of the bitter orange tree, neroli oil smells fresh, floral and gently bitter, with a hint of citrus and green.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with neroli
Geranium
The leaves of the scented pelargonium give an oil that smells green, rosy and slightly minty, with a lemony freshness.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with geranium
Peony
Soft, rosy and lightly fresh, peony gives a fluffy, watery floral smell with a delicate green and slightly fruity side.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with peony
White flowers
Creamy, heady blossoms such as jasmine, gardenia or tuberose fall under white flowers, an umbrella term that names a floral effect rather than a single material.
Listed in Lip Stick (heart), Pink Lady (heart) and Take Off (top).
Ylang-ylang
Ylang-ylang flowers come from a tropical tree and give a creamy, sweet and heady smell, with a banana-like fruitiness and a jasmine-like richness.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with ylang-ylang
Linden blossom
The flowers of the linden, or lime, tree give a soft, honeyed and slightly green scent with a fresh, hay-like warmth.
Listed in Attacks Blue (top) and Take Off (top).
Broom flower
Bright yellow flowers on a shrub give broom its sweet, honeyed, slightly hay-like note, with a green freshness.
Listed in Take Off (heart).
Champaca
The golden flowers of a tropical tree in the magnolia family give champaca its rich, sweet and fruity smell, with a floral warmth and a hint of tea.
Listed in Harmony (heart).
Gardenia
Creamy, lush and softly fruity, gardenia is a white flower with a rich, slightly green fragrance.
Listed in Arrogate Pink Diva (heart).
Heliotrope
Sweet, soft and powdery, heliotrope has a smell close to vanilla and almond, with a light floral warmth.
Listed in Take Off (base).
Honeysuckle
Sweet, light and honeyed, honeysuckle comes from a climbing garden flower and has a delicate green freshness.
Listed in Take Off (heart).
Lemon blossom
Light, fresh and softly sweet, lemon blossom is a citrus flower with a gentle floral scent that carries a hint of lemon zest.
Listed in Black Wild (top).
Orchid
Orchid notes are usually a soft, creamy floral accord rather than an extract, with a smooth, slightly sweet and sometimes vanilla-like feel.
Listed in First Night (heart).
Spices, herbs and tea
Lavender
Lavender is a purple-flowered Mediterranean herb whose oil smells fresh, herbal and floral, with a slightly camphor-like edge.
Listed by 14 scents. All Assaf perfumes with lavender
Pink pepper
Despite the name, pink pepper comes from the dried berries of the Peruvian pepper tree and smells fresh, lightly peppery and a little rosy and citrusy.
Listed by 13 scents. All Assaf perfumes with pink pepper
Cardamom
The seed pods of a plant related to ginger give cardamom its smell, which is spicy, aromatic and slightly sweet, with a cool, eucalyptus-like freshness.
Listed by 12 scents. All Assaf perfumes with cardamom
Cinnamon
Cinnamon comes from the dried inner bark of a tropical tree and smells warm, sweet and spicy, with a faintly woody edge.
Listed by 12 scents. All Assaf perfumes with cinnamon
Saffron
Saffron consists of the dried stigmas of a crocus flower, and it smells dry, warm and leathery, with a honeyed, slightly metallic edge.
Listed by 12 scents. All Assaf perfumes with saffron
Spices
An umbrella term that names a group, not one material, spices usually stand for warm, aromatic seasonings such as cinnamon, clove, cardamom and pepper.
Listed in Arrogate Bakhur (top), Arrogate Oud Bakhur (top), Attacks (top), Frankel Black Elixir (top), Frankel Chill (heart), Frankel Elysium (heart), King Enable (top), Pegasus Oud (top), Rebel Enable (top), Risk Comete (heart), Wild Colt Elixir (top) and Wild Colt Tobacco (top).
Ginger
The knobbly root of a tropical plant, ginger smells warm, peppery and zesty, with a fresh, slightly lemony sparkle.
Listed by 10 scents. All Assaf perfumes with ginger
Mint
Cool, sweet and green, mint comes from the leaves of aromatic herbs and gives a lively, refreshing smell.
Listed by 5 scents. All Assaf perfumes with mint
Basil
Green, fresh and slightly peppery, basil is a leafy kitchen herb with a gentle sweetness and a hint of aniseed.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with basil
Nutmeg
The seed of a tropical evergreen tree, nutmeg smells warm, sweet and slightly nutty, with a soft, woody spice.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with nutmeg
Clove
Dried from the flower buds of a tropical tree, clove smells warm, sweet and sharp, with a faintly medicinal edge.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with clove
Black tea
Fermented, dried tea leaves give black tea a note that smells dry, slightly smoky and gently sweet, with a faint malty warmth.
Listed in Frankel Blue Elixir (heart) and Frankel Imagination (heart).
Cumin
Warm, earthy and savoury, cumin is the seed of a small herb, with a dry, slightly animal edge.
Green tea
Fresh, light and a little bitter, green tea smells of lightly steeped leaves, with a clean, watery green quality.
Listed in Frankel Silver (heart) and Frankel Silver Elixir (heart).
Pepper
Dry, sharp and warm, pepper comes from the dried berries of a climbing vine, and has a woody side with a touch of citrus.
Listed in Challenge (top) and Tobacco Black 40 (heart).
Aromatic notes
Naming a group of materials rather than one of them, aromatic notes stands for herbal, fresh and slightly camphor-like ingredients such as lavender, sage or rosemary.
Listed in Arrogate Oud Bakhur (top).
Nepeta
Nepeta, better known as catmint, is an herb that smells fresh, green and minty, with a faint herbal sweetness.
Listed in Morning Girl (heart).
Sage
The silvery leaves of the sage herb give a dry, green and aromatic note, with a faint camphor-like and earthy quality.
Listed in Challenge (top).
Tea
Tea in perfumery suggests the dry, leafy smell of an infusion, soft and slightly bitter, without naming a particular variety.
Listed in Challenge (heart).
Woods and moss
Patchouli
The leaves of a tropical herb give patchouli its smell, which is earthy, dark and woody, with a damp, sweet and slightly camphor-like side.
Listed by 38 scents. All Assaf perfumes with patchouli
Sandalwood
The heartwood of the sandalwood tree gives a creamy, soft and slightly milky woody smell with a faint sweetness.
Listed by 31 scents. All Assaf perfumes with sandalwood
Vetiver
Extracted from the roots of a tall tropical grass, vetiver smells earthy, smoky and woody, with a green, slightly bitter freshness.
Listed by 27 scents. All Assaf perfumes with vetiver
Cedarwood
Dry, clean and lightly resinous, cedarwood has the scent of freshly sharpened pencils, with a warm woody sweetness underneath.
Listed by 26 scents. All Assaf perfumes with cedarwood
Oud
Formed in agarwood trees as a reaction to a fungal infection, oud is a dark, resinous wood that smells deep, smoky and slightly animalic.
Listed by 10 scents. All Assaf perfumes with oud
Guaiac wood
Guaiac wood oil is distilled from the wood of a South American tree and smells smoky, sweet and slightly tea-like, with a soft rosy tone.
Listed by 6 scents. All Assaf perfumes with guaiac wood
Oakmoss
A pale lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss smells earthy, damp and mossy, with a sweet, slightly leathery forest-floor depth.
Listed by 6 scents. All Assaf perfumes with oakmoss
Woody notes
An umbrella term for a group, not one material, woody notes stands for the dry, warm or creamy smells of woods such as cedar or sandalwood.
Listed in Arrogate Oud Bakhur (heart), Aura Black (base), Black Wild (base) and Pegasus Oud (heart).
Akigalawood
Among modern woody aroma ingredients, akigalawood smells dry, woody and peppery, with a hint of spice and a slightly earthy undertone.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with akigalawood
Birch
In perfumery, birch is usually the tar distilled from the bark, which smells smoky, dry and leathery, with a hint of burnt wood.
Listed in Frankel Ascot (base).
Cashmere wood
Soft and warm, cashmere wood is a woody-musky note usually built from modern aroma materials rather than taken from a single tree.
Listed in Lady (base).
Cypress
A tall evergreen conifer, cypress gives a fresh, green and resinous smell that is woody, slightly piney and aromatic.
Listed in Miss Arrogate Diva (heart).
Papyrus
A dry, woody-grassy note, papyrus suggests the pale stems of the reed plant, with a soft, airy and slightly papery quality.
Listed in Tobacco Jam 50 (heart).
Amber, resins and incense
Amber
Not a single material but a warm, sweet accord, amber is typically built from resins such as labdanum and benzoin, with a soft, powdery, vanilla-like glow.
Listed by 51 scents. All Assaf perfumes with amber
Incense
Incense comes from the dried resin of Boswellia trees, also called olibanum or frankincense, and smells smoky, dry and resinous, with a faint lemony freshness.
Listed by 8 scents. All Assaf perfumes with incense
Labdanum
Gathered from the rock-rose shrub as a sticky resin, labdanum smells warm, ambery and sweet, with leathery, slightly animal and honeyed tones.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with labdanum
Balsamic notes
An umbrella term for an effect rather than one material, balsamic notes stands for the sweet, warm, soft smells of resins and balsams such as benzoin or styrax.
Listed in Arrogate Oud Bakhur (base) and Miss Noble (base).
Benzoin
Warm, soft and vanilla-like, benzoin is a sweet balsamic resin from trees of South-East Asia, with a hint of cinnamon.
Listed in Forever Here (base) and Green Iris (base).
Resins
Hardened saps of trees and shrubs, such as myrrh or benzoin, fall under resins, a group name rather than one material, with a warm, balsamic and slightly smoky smell.
Listed in Arrogate Oud Bakhur (base) and Tobacco Jam 50 (top).
Smoky notes
Smoky notes are an umbrella term for a dry, charred or incense-like effect from sources such as birch tar or guaiac wood, not one single material.
Listed in Arrogate Oud Bakhur (base) and Pegasus Oud (heart).
Galbanum
A green resin from plants of the Ferula family, galbanum smells sharp, leafy and bitter, like crushed green stems.
Listed in Frankel Silver (base).
Myrrh
Tapped from Commiphora trees as a gum resin, myrrh smells warm, bitter and balsamic, with a slightly medicinal edge and a smoky sweetness.
Listed in No Comment (heart).
Styrax
Styrax is a balsamic resin from trees and smells sweet, warm and slightly smoky, with a leathery, spicy edge.
Listed in Challenge (base).
Leather and tobacco
Leather
Built from smoky, resinous and tarry ingredients rather than real hide, the leather note smells dry, warm and slightly animalic.
Listed by 8 scents. All Assaf perfumes with leather
Tobacco
Tobacco notes come from cured leaves and smell sweet, hay-like and honeyed, with a dark, slightly smoky warmth.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with tobacco
Suede
Softer and smoother than leather, the suede note is a powdery, velvety accord that feels warm, dry and slightly sweet.
Listed by 3 scents. All Assaf perfumes with suede
Vanilla and sweet notes
Vanilla
Cured pods of a climbing orchid give vanilla its smell, which is sweet, creamy, warm and comforting, with a soft, slightly smoky depth.
Listed by 38 scents. All Assaf perfumes with vanilla
Caramel
Based on the smell of cooked sugar, the caramel note is sweet, toasty and buttery, with a faint burnt edge.
Listed by 8 scents. All Assaf perfumes with caramel
Tonka bean
The seed of a South American tree, tonka bean smells sweet and warm, like a mix of vanilla, almond and freshly cut hay.
Listed by 8 scents. All Assaf perfumes with tonka bean
Almond
Nutty, creamy and sweet, almond often suggests marzipan, while its bitter form adds a slightly cherry-like edge.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with almond
Sweet notes
Gourmand effects such as sugar, vanilla or caramel fall under sweet notes, a broad umbrella term that names a feel and not one single material.
Listed in Tobacco Black 40 (heart).
Musk and aroma molecules
Musk
Synthetic molecules supply most musk today, and the note smells soft, smooth and skin-like, from clean and powdery to warm and slightly sweet.
Listed by 64 scents. All Assaf perfumes with musk
Powdery notes
Powdery notes are an umbrella term for a soft, dry effect like face powder, given by materials such as iris, violet or musk.
Listed in Arrogate Girl (base), Frankel Storm (heart), Gris Erik (heart), Miss Arrogate (top), Miss Flora (base), Miss Gris Intense (heart) and Pink Queen (heart).
Ambroxan
Warm, dry and slightly salty, ambroxan is a modern woody-ambery aroma molecule with a smooth, skin-like mineral quality.
Listed by 4 scents. All Assaf perfumes with ambroxan
Ambergris
A waxy substance produced in sperm whales and matured by the sea, ambergris smells sweet, marine and skin-like, with a soft, earthy warmth.
Listed in Arrogate Addict (base).
Hedione
A modern aroma molecule with a light jasmine-like character, hedione smells airy, transparent and softly floral, with a faint citrus freshness.
Listed in Search (heart).
Marine and mineral notes
Seaweed
Briny, green and damp, seaweed suggests the smell of the shore, with an iodine-like, mineral quality.
Listed in Noble Cavale (heart) and Search (heart).
Calone
A watery-marine aroma molecule, calone smells fresh, airy and slightly melon-like, and is used to create a sea-breeze effect.
Listed in Search (heart).
Marine notes
A collective term for the effect of sea air rather than one material, marine notes stands for fresh, salty, watery and slightly mineral smells.
Listed in Swimming In Summer Intense (heart).
Ozone
An airy, clean, watery effect rather than a natural material, ozone suggests the fresh air that follows rain.
Listed in Private Purple (heart).
Sea salt
Suggesting sea spray, the sea salt note is mineral, airy and faintly salty, with a clean, bright effect.
Listed in Noble Cavale (top).
Notes and families
A note list tells you what a perfume is built from; the family tells you where it is heading. The range is sorted both ways: see Assaf perfumes by scent family.
Top, heart and base
Top notes are what you smell straight after spraying. Heart notes follow once those have faded. Base notes stay the longest. A note list tells you what a perfume is built from, not how it will smell on your skin; for that there is no substitute for trying it.
Collective terms such as woody notes, spices or powdery notes are in the glossary as well. They name an effect or a group without naming one material, so this guide does not count them when it compares two scents.
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